OUT OF AFRICA

Out Of Africa

"Today, praise be to God, wine was made for the first time from Cape grapes."
Dutch colonial administrator and founder of Cape Town, Jan van Riebeeck, recorded that in his diary in 1659, just five short years after settling in the region. When the Dutch settled New Amsterdam-now New York in 1652, they also sent an expedition to set up a victualling station at the southern tip of Africa.

Unlike their base in America, the one in South Africa offered a Mediterranean climate that proved to be perfect for growing grapes for wine making. Thankfully, van Riebeeck appreciated that fact and within five years of arrival had planted wine grapes. Today, Cape growers are very proud of their best wines, which regularly rank up there with the best in the world.

Like all wine industries, that of the Cape has had its ups and downs. Simon van der Stel became Commander of the Cape settlement in 1679 and founded the town that bears his name, Stellenbosch, in that year. It's a town that would grow to become one of the hubs of the Cape wine industry. Constantia is one of the oldest suburbs of Cape Town and is famed for its wine, which became very fashionable in Europe during the mid 1700s through to the end of the century. When Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to the island of St. Helena, Constantia wines were his wines of choice. In the late 1700s the dreaded louse phylloxera was discovered in the Cape and soon devastated all the vines-basically wiping out the industry. Only the use of America's phylloxera resistant root stock enabled the industry to recover.

After the Second World War the South African government introduced exceedingly stringent rules and regulations to ensures that only top quality wines and brandies were produced. In 1973 this was further enhanced by the introduction of the Wine of Origin system, which ensures that whatever claims are made on the label with regard to origin, variety, and vintage are correct. This is confirmed by a postage stamp size certificate attached to the neck of every bottle of wine that conforms to the system. Note: Be very wary of wine that doesn't wield this certification.

The system was improved in 2010 with the addition of the IPW (Integrated Production of Wine) being included on the new certificates. This ensures that all the grape growing and wine making has been done in accordance with the strictly laid down criteria so that all is in concert with nature. Of course, all the legislation in the world doesn't necessarily make good wine. But Cape growers have regularly proven their skills in all manner of International Competition.

For example, the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) has been held annually in Britain for more than 40 years, making it one of the oldest ongoing competitions. What makes this competition so important is that every medal-winning wine is chemically analyzed to ensure its integrity. Also, each year a president is appointed and after his or her term is up they serve on the board of advisors. Some of the greatest names of the wine and spirits world are involved and underlines the stature of the Competition: the late Harry Waugh, Robert Mondavi, Jean Hugel, Dr. Anton Rupert, and Cyril Ray; still involved are Gina Gallo, Wolf Blass, Miguel Torres, Marchese Leonardo de Frescobaldi, Robert Drouhin, and Piero Antinori, to mention just a few.

Out Of Africa

At the IWSC, the world's top winemaker has been a South African four times. The best Chardonnay award has come to South Africa five years in succession, including: Rustenberg two vintages in a row; Uva Mira; Jordan; and Delheim. South African wines have won the best Red Blend six out of 10 years, including: Vergelegen 1995 and 2000; Kaapzicht 2001; Meerlust Rubicon 2001; and Paul Sauer from Kanonkop has taken the trophy three times with '91, '95, and 2003 vintages. South African Merlot and Chenins have regularly gained the top honors while Shiraz is gaining the top accolades in recent years. In 2009 the Shiraz from a Constantia winery, Eagle Nest, was tops. South African Sauvignon Blanc always features well, as do the Methode Cap Classique.

A particular section of the Cape that really excels is botrytised wines. Here, a number of producers are regularly rated with the tops. Nederburg Edelkeur and Neethlingshof Noble Late Harvest are probably the most decorated. Of course, if you ask me, South African Pinotage is the world's best. Pinotage has long been grown in New Zealand and nowadays there are commercial plantings in Israel, the U.S., and southern France.

South African brandy is also worth noting. Seven out of the past nine years South African brandies have been rated the best at the IWSC. Another area where the Cape is rated incredibly well is fortified wines, including many outstanding ports and a unique and magnificent style of fortified Muscadel. Then, of course, it's impossible to talk about the Cape without mentioning the beauty of the Winelands of the Cape. The magnificent and dramatic backdrop of high and steep mountains and the sea are never very far away-all making a visit well worthwhile.

Dave Hughes, South Africa's international wine expert involved in the formation of the Cape Wine Academy, has been in the wine industry since 1986 and has written over a dozen books about South African wines and vineyards.

drink of the month
Mint Julep

BEST. MARGARITA. EVER

I've no scientific proof to back this up, but I'm confident that one of the top five requested porch drinks is the Margarita. That's surely true in my home state of Texas, where Margaritas practically flow from fountains (and sometimes actually do). That proved a challenge when I moved to Austin in my early 30s-until I realized I'd been living in a parallel universe of tequila. You see, early on I decided I didn't like the drink. (OK, so I drank way too much of the cheap stuff one college evening; the result wasn't pretty.) Then I discovered the well-crafted stuff-a.k.a. "top-shelf" or "Cadillac" tequila, exquisitely golden, smooth, and silky. In this drink it comes with just the right amount of lime, and kick.

Serves 1

Rim: 1 tablespoon kosher or coarse sea salt, 1/2 teaspoon lime zest, and 1 lime wedge
2 ounces high-quality tequila
1 ounce orange-flavored liqueur
1 1/2 ounces fresh lime juice
Garnish: Lime wheel


1. Combine salt and lime zest in a small shallow dish. Moisten the rim of a Margarita glass with the lime wedge. Dip the rim into the salt-zest mixture and set aside.

2. Combine the tequila, liqueur, and lime juice in an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Shake well and strain into prepared glass. Garnish, if desired.

Recipe by Denise Gee

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